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回族“九碗席”——舌尖上的西海固--亲稳网络舆情监控室
2012-12-29
12月27日,在宁夏回族自治区西吉县兴隆镇,回族“九碗席”制作者苏兰花正在摆放热气腾腾的九碗菜。西海固,位于宁夏回族自治区南部,生活在这里的回族人,经过上百年的研制改良,制作出了极具观赏性的清真宴席——“九碗席”。
On December 27,,In the ningxia hui autonomous region 西吉县 XingLongZhen,The hui nationality"Nine bowl at the table"Makers SuLanHua are put nine bowl of steaming food.Western solid,Is located in the south of ningxia hui autonomous region,The hui nationality people living here,After hundreds of years of research and improvement,Made an appreciation of the Muslim feast --"Nine bowl at the table".
所谓“九碗席”,是指宴席上的菜全部用9只大小一样的碗来盛,并要把九只碗摆成每边三碗的正方形,故名“九碗席”。“九碗席”四个角上的肉菜,称之为“角肉”,四个边的菜里其中对面的两碗菜,称“门子”菜。“门子”菜以酥肉和肉丸为主,另外也可以分别放些鸡蛋、木耳之类的东西以示区别。中间的那碗菜,一般放上一只整鸡,吃的时候,主人家先切开整鸡供客人食用。
The so-called"Nine bowl at the table",Refers to all the dishes on the table filled with nine as to the size of the bowl,And to put the bowl into each side of three bowls of square,The name"Nine bowl at the table"."Nine bowl at the table"On the four corners of meat dishes,Call it"Angle of meat",Across the four side of the dish of the two bowls of food,said"doors"food."doors"Food is given priority to with crisp meat and meatball,Also can put some eggs/Agaric things to show distinction.In the midst of the bowl of food,Generally put a whole chicken,eating,Host family first cut the chicken for guests to eat.
苏兰花一家祖祖辈辈生活在西海固这片土地上,制作“九碗席”的手艺也是从她母亲那里传承下来的。18岁那年,第一次品尝到“九碗席”的美味后,苏兰花就开始和母亲学习制作方法,由于“九碗席”制作工艺比较繁复,一般手艺成熟的厨师也要花费5到6个小时才能完成,不到节日喜事,一般很少吃上“九碗席”。现在,苏兰花总算能够一个人独立完成一套“九碗席”了。“最难的就是调高汤!”苏兰花告诉记者,“因为所有席上的菜都以蒸煮为主,口味比较清淡,所以调制一锅味道鲜美的高汤浇在菜上才是成功的关键!”为了练习,苏兰花经常一个人站在热气腾腾的灶台前不停地下料、品尝,一做就是一天。当问到为什么这么执着于“九碗席”的时候,苏兰花笑着说:“以前家里条件不好,九碗席一年都不一定能吃上一次,现在条件好多了,就想着能让娃娃经常吃上!”新华社记者 彭昭之摄
SuLanHua traditionally living in a western solid this land,making"Nine bowl at the table"The craft is passed down from her mother.18 years old,The first taste"Nine bowl at the table"After the delicious,SuLanHua mother and began to study method,Due to the"Nine bowl at the table"Production process is more complicated,General skills mature chef will take 5 to 6 hours to complete,Less than happy holiday,Usually eat little"Nine bowl at the table".now,SuLanHua finally can complete a set of independent one"Nine bowl at the table"the."The hardest is the soup!"SuLanHua told reporters,"Because all the dishes on the table are given priority to with the cooking,Taste is light,So the modulation of a pot of delicious soup poured on the dish is the key to success!"In order to practice,SuLanHua often a man standing in front of steaming hearth incessantly/taste,Is one to do one day.When asked why so persistent in"Nine bowl at the table"When the,SuLanHua said with a smile:"Before the home conditions is not good,Nine bowl at all can not eat the last time in a year,Conditions much better now,Just want to make baby often eat!"The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
上图:12月27日,苏兰花(右)在案板上揉面。 中图:12月27日,苏兰花在面饼上划下两道划痕,便于油香里外都能炸透。下图:12月27日,苏兰花在炸油香,油香也是吃“九碗席”必备的主食。 新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The picture above:On December 27,,SuLanHua(right)The chopping board and face to face. Chinese:On December 27,,SuLanHua in bunches cross under two scratches,For even can fry it both inside and outside.below:On December 27,,SuLanHua in Fried even,Even is to eat"Nine bowl at the table"The necessary staple food. The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
左上:12月27日,苏兰花在向“四角”上的肉菜里浇入高汤。 左下:12月27日,苏兰花在向“门子”菜里浇入高汤。 右图:12月27日,苏兰花在调制高汤。 Upper left:On December 27,,SuLanHua to"Four corners"The meat dish on the pouring into the soup. The peptide:On December 27,,SuLanHua to"doors"Dish poured into the soup. On the right:On December 27,,SuLanHua in a soup.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
12月27日,苏兰花在向酥肉里添加调味料。 On December 27,,SuLanHua to crisp flesh add seasoning.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
12月27日,苏兰花在搓肉丸子,肉丸子也是“九碗席”的“门子”菜里必备的食品。 On December 27,,SuLanHua in rub meatballs,The meatball son also"Nine bowl at the table"the"doors"Dish of food.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
左上:12月27日,苏兰花在捏制酥肉。左下:12月27日,兰花正在碎米中摇肉丸子,经过不停的滚摇,米粒会黏在肉丸上,口感更好。右图:12月27日,苏兰花把肉丸子和酥肉放入蒸笼里蒸制。 Upper left:On December 27,,SuLanHua in kneading crisp flesh.The peptide:On December 27,,Orchids are in broken wave meatballs,After all of the roll,Rice is sticky on the meatball,Taste better.On the right:On December 27,,SuLanHua the meatballs and crisp flesh in a steamer basket steamed.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
12月27日,苏兰花在为客人们撕整鸡,这是表示对客人的尊敬和欢迎。 On December 27,,SuLanHua for guests to tear the whole chicken,This is respect for the guest and welcome.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
12月27日,苏兰花在向肉饼里打入鸡蛋准备制作酥肉。 On December 27,,SuLanHua to score the eggs to make hamburger meat crisp flesh.新华社记者 彭昭之摄 The xinhua news agency reporters PengZhao of perturbation
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