很难说自己多么客观，即便再怎么努力着要保持中立，也总是会跟自己固有的知识相比较，得出一些下意识的结论。朝鲜之于我，一贯是看不清的，就好像纪录片的拍摄角度已经由摄影师选取，即便身在平壤，所看到的也一律是被安排、被选取的风景。自己的行动基本上很难，离开翻译就寸步难行，而跟着翻译则意味着被监督、被管理。所以我称平壤为“谜都”在此停留了十二天，却并不敢说自己看到了多少的真实。

It's hard to say how much their objective，Even if again how hard to remain neutral，Will always with yourself of the knowledge of the inherent compared，Draw some subconscious conclusion。North Korea is to me，Always look not clear，As if the shooting Angle documentary by photographer has selected，Even if the body in Pyongyang，See also is all arrangements、Selected scenery。His action basically is difficult，Leave the translation is upright，And follow translation means being supervision、Be management。So I call for Pyongyang“Mystery are”Stop here for twelve days，But and wouldn't say I see how much real。

谜都谍影 Mystery thriller all of
　　大多数的外宾都会被集中安排在羊角岛饭店或者高丽饭店。一进高丽饭店他们便会安排人来拍照。后来才知道，原来照片会成为高丽饭店里监视我们行动的工作人员的依据，但凡我们出酒店门很快就会有人知道，即便不是当时制止也会在稍后立即提醒，或者干脆就提出抗议。

Most of the foreign guests will be set up in the trumpets of RAMS 'horns island hotel or koryo hotel。A Korean restaurant in they will arranged for someone to take photos。Afterwards just know，The original photo will be the Korean restaurant to watch us working personnel of the basis for action，We got out from the hotel door there'll be soon know，Even if not at that time will also stop in later immediately remind，Or simply a protest。

　　我们每天的日程有专人陪同、专人翻译、专车接送，同时不可避免地有专人遥控。每天清晨六七点才能知道当天上午的安排，下午的则要等到午饭后电话通知。于是每天固定时间都必须等在酒店房间接听电话，因为除此之外没有别的联络方式。自由出街更是不可想象的。首先没有翻译寸步难行，其次没有确定闲置的时间，再次上街常常会遭到举报。我们的摄影师清晨出门拍照就曾遭到清洁工举报，后来又有一次我们去酒店顶楼旋转餐厅拍摄服务生悬挂的气球也遭到举报，并被我们的陪同警告，他认为我们的行为严重伤害了朝鲜人民的感情，要求删除。有时我们出门会发现楼梯口门后有莫名其妙的人，问她会不会说中文，她用汉语回答“不会”而后忽然意识到什么赶忙摆手。还有时陪同和翻译会一直送我们到电梯口和颜悦色的要求我们马上上楼休息，尽管后来也没什么真正惊心动魄的事情发生，但一度气氛紧张得像参与了一场碟中谍的暗战。

Every day we schedule is accompanied by the specialist、Special translation、For transportation to，At the same time inevitably has the specialist remote control。Every morning LiuQiDian can know in the morning of arrangement，The afternoon is to wait until after lunch phone call。So every time must be fixed in the hotel room to answer the phone，Because in addition had no other communication。Freedom is a street unthinkable。Translation is not first upright，Not sure idle time next，Take to the streets again often were reported。Our photographer taking pictures had to go out in the morning was cleaner to report，Then the time we went to the hotel top-floor revolving restaurant filming waiter suspension balloon was reported，And we accompanied by the warning，He thinks that our behavior serious hurt the feelings of the north Korean people，request。Sometimes we go out will find stairs behind the door of the puzzling，Q she will not speak Chinese，She answered in Chinese“Won't”And then suddenly realized that what quickly motioning with his hand。And when the translation will always be accompanied and send us to the elevator of the power requirements we'll go upstairs and have a rest，Although later also nothing really thrilling things to happen，But once a tense as involved in a mission: impossible of dark war。

　　去朝鲜之前做了物质上才吃苦的准备，也想着也许朝鲜人会对中国人热情友好。实际情况是，对外国人而言在朝鲜物质上并不会太离谱，基本上可以满足，对中国人额外的友好什么的却并不觉得有，反而觉得他们特别警觉，充满了戒心，随时担心我们偷拍到负面的图，看到不该看的东西。每次看到摄影师动作娴熟地偷换SD卡就觉得心情特别紧张，好像要掩护自己有重大使命的战友一般。直到离开平壤在机场过了安检确定了他们不会再查相机最终松了一口气，才确保所有图片可以带回国内。

Go to north Korea the only on the matter before the hardship of preparation，Also thinking about maybe north koreans to Chinese will warm and friendly。Actual situation is，For a foreigner in north Korea material will not too far off，Basically can meet，To Chinese the extra friendly but not feel what，But that they are particularly alert，Full of suspicious，Gazing at any time to worry about our negative picture，See shouldn't see things。Every time I see photographer action skillfully than SD card feel so nervous mood，If to cover up ourselves have great mission in general。Leave Pyongyang airport until the security in determined they won't find camera finally breathed a sigh of relief，To ensure that all pictures can back to domestic。
  　　

  亲历苍光幼儿园 Ebon by light the kindergarten
　　平壤城区并无太多高楼大厦，论建筑的话看点并不多。整体感觉尽管开阔，但色泽晦暗，人车稀少，像极了中国七八十年代的省会城市。据说平壤绿化比例很高，但实地并无太多感觉，虽然空气质量的确要比北上广好不少。凡是去朝鲜旅游都会被安排到学校、工厂、农场、艺术家工作室等代表性的景点参观。他们的本意很好理解，就是想让外宾对朝鲜的各行各业有一个大致的美好印象。

Pyongyang city and not much tall buildings，Not many words of building read。Whole feels although open，But tarnished，Few cars，Like great China, capital city of the s and s。It is said that Pyongyang greening a high proportion，But the field and not much feeling，Although air quality it more than north wide good many。All go to the north's tourism will be arranged to go to school、The factory、farm、Artist studio representative scenic spot to visit。Their original idea is easy to understand，Just to let foreign guests to the north Korea's all walks of life have a general good impression。

　　印象尤为深刻的是苍光幼儿园。

Particularly deep impression of the ebon is light the kindergarten。

　　作为典型的上流子弟幼儿园，苍光幼儿园历来参观率极高。一进门就有幼儿园老师们带着挨个班参观。有的班唱歌，有的班跳舞，有的班玩游戏。每当我到一个班，表演项目总是刚刚开始，中间完全无缝对接。

As a typical high children nursery school，Ebon kindergarten has high rates of light to visit。A door have kindergarten teachers take place get class visit。Some class singing，Some dance class，Some class play games。Whenever I went to a class，Performance project is always just beginning，Middle completely seamless docking。

　　我很明显的觉得第一个班的孩子们更漂亮。每一个孩子都白白胖胖笑容甜美，而且刚好还有一对双胞胎，恰到好处地点缀着。能感觉到是严格挑选出来的，无论外形还是才艺，是门面工程的门面项目。其实每个来参观的所谓游客或者国际友人，看到孩子都会忍不住的开心，但稍微恢复心智就知道这样做对孩子们其实是多么残忍。每次表演开始，孩子们都会呲着牙笑。他们有一个固定的审美标准，乖孩子就一定是那么职业地露出那么多牙。本来天真烂漫的小孩儿，配上虚假的笑容，顿时不如表演前美。他们都紧绷着笑，直到结束的那一刻才瞬间卸下。

I obviously think first class children more beautiful。Every child all the white fat sweet smile，And just have a pair of twins，Properly ornament。Can feel it is strictly selected，Whatever shape or talent，Appearance is the appearance of the engineering project。Actually every visit of so-called tourists or international friends，See the child would stop happy，But a little mind will know that this recovery for children is actually how cruel。Every time performance start，Children can yi teeth with smile。They have a fixed aesthetic standards，Lovely children must be so professional show so many teeth。Was innocent children，Match on false smile，Immediately before the first performance than beauty。They draw tight smile，Until the end of that a moment to moment to unload。

　　幼儿园的条件的确非常好，无论师资、配套设施还是餐饮，孩子们不但能歌善舞，还擅长端起自己的笑容迎接一个又一个的旅游团。那一刻，他们的确代表着朝鲜，但并非是朝鲜儿童，而是这个国家由内而外的宣教方式。 　　

The conditions of the kindergarten is really very good，Whether teachers、Supporting facilities or restaurants，The children can not only，Also good at end up his smile to meet one of the tour group。At that moment，They really represent north Korea，But not north Korea is the children，But the country by inside and way of doing mission。 直面贫穷 Face poverty
　　从新义州坐火车入境，后来又从平壤坐大巴去了一趟板门店，沿途都会看到一些平壤以外的状况。虽然尚不知道能在多大程度上代表朝鲜，但浮光掠影看到的贫困程度已经触目惊心。平壤偶尔也可以看到一两个腆着肚子的微胖界人士，但平壤鲜之外几乎都很干瘪、矮小、面如菜色。见到新义州火车站前穿着寒酸的女人，背着几十斤的行李，腰弯得很低很低。小男孩儿衣衫褴褛，衣服已经脏得不成样子。食不果腹我没有亲眼看到，但长期营养不良的身体却遍地都是。

By train from sinuiju entry，Then from Pyongyang to sit bus to a BanMenDian trip，Will see some Pyongyang along the way outside the condition。Although still don't know how much can represent north Korea，But FuGuangLveYing see poverty levels have serie a。Pyongyang occasionally can see a two the tian belly of the fat circles，But Pyongyang outside is very dry fresh almost、short、Side dishes such as。See in front of the railway station of shabby sinuiju woman，Carry a few jins of luggage，Bent low is very low。The little boy dressed in rags，Dirty clothes have no way。Where many don't have enough I didn't see，But long-term malnutrition body, all the land。

　　联合国最新报告的数据显示，朝鲜有超过1600万的人口缺乏食物、营养不良。在这个国家里，勒紧裤腰带是市井生活的寻常事。即便是在平壤市中心，高楼林立也经不起细看，往往家徒四壁只挂着一只节能灯泡。甚至看到未完工的烂尾楼已经住进去了人，外围裹着绿色纱布遮羞。就是这样的平壤市民，会在太阳节参加街头活动，高呼万岁。华美衣服下面尽是干巴巴的身体。他们排起长队等待阅兵式的装甲车隆隆开过，也排起长队等待食物。

The United Nations reports the latest figures show，North Korea had a population of more than 16 million lack of food、malnutrition。In this country，Tighten belt is the XunChangShi street life。Even in PingRangShi center，Full also can not stand tall enough，Often only hang a destitute energy-saving bulb。Even see unfinished lousy poop have lived in person，The form of the green gauze loincloths。That is the way the Pyongyang citizens，TaiYangJie to participate in activities in the streets，Chanted long live。The fine clothes are dry body。They wonderment to wait for the armored vehicles drive in military rumble，Also queuing up waiting for food。

　　遇到一位在朝鲜投资建厂的中国朝鲜族人，他家在平壤有位亲戚，也算是干部家庭，竟然三十年没有吃到过肉。有次问我们的翻译小崔，一人能分到多少口粮，答曰每天700克大米。追问能分到多少肉，他一直有所掩饰，只说是能分到，半天才说每个月能分到一公斤，但语气游离有所保留。有次招待会上，各国来宾齐集一堂，朝鲜的陪同和翻译们也都在，大家眼睁睁的目睹了朝鲜人争抢着吃肉的一幕。这些人必不来自社会下层，却只肯夹肉吃，让人看得既傻眼又心酸。　 　　

Meet a factory in north Korea investment of Chinese ethnic koreans，His house in Pyongyang, a relative，Also be cadre family，Unexpectedly 30 years did not eat the meat。Once asked our translation small cui，A man can to how much food rations，Answer yue 700 g rice every day。Cross-examine ended much meat，He has been to hide，Just say able to distribute，Along while just said every month ended a kilogram，But the tone free reserved。A conference，All the guests in one，North Korea's accompanied and also in the translation，Everybody helplessly witnessed jostle for a scene of north koreans eat meat。These people will not come from the society，But only willing to clip the meat，Let people watch is dumbfounded and touching。 浮世朝鲜 Float world north Korea
　　朝鲜人索要礼物的情况非常严重，所谓民风淳朴也许只是个传说。

For the north koreans to present the situation is very serious，The so-called honest people maybe is just a myth。

　　一次是我们的翻译小崔，举着一包中国烟，说是他在羊角岛酒店做翻译的同事转送给他的，他说，我奉劝你们以后来朝鲜的时候带两条烟，办事会容易很多。

A is our translation small cui，Holding a pack of China smoke，Say is he in the trumpets of RAMS 'horns island hotel do translation colleagues turn to him，He said，I advise you to north Korea after I took two cigarettes，It will make everything easy to many。

　　第二次是在上飞机前，人生第一次遭遇了飞机提前半小时起飞的情况，排队换登机牌时惊闻飞机已经离地，顿时惊慌失措。后来被安排到下一班飞往北京的包机（一般情况下每周飞往北京和沈阳的飞机各两班而已，误机后果严重），结果无座，破天荒拿到高丽航空座位为JMP的机票，要倒坐在机舱口的走廊，而且没有安全带。离开候机大厅去登机前，机场的工作人员笑嘻嘻叮嘱我们，“记得下次带两条烟，他们会帮你们安排好位置”。这句话，和飞机提前半小时起飞，一起长久地印在我的脑海。

The second is in on a plane before，Life first encounter the plane take off half an hour earlier in the situation，Line up in when the plane had already started to smell boarding pass from the ground，Immediately panic。Later was arranged to the next flight to Beijing's charter flights（Usually weekly to fly to Beijing and shenyang aircraft every two class just，Missed the flight serious consequences），Results no seat，The Korean airline seat for ground-breaking get JMP ticket，To fell back in the cabin mouth corridor，And without the seat belt。Leave the terminal to before boarding，Airport officials smile happily told us，“Remember that the next time you take two cigarettes，They will help you arrange good position”。This sentence，And half an hour earlier in the plane take off，Together long imprinted on my mind。

　　平心而论，我们也经历过，但依然担心朝鲜的出路在何处，它被历史和现实挟持着，如果不是一直僵持，不知何时才能弥合。

In all fairness，We have experienced，But still worry about the way out of north Korea where they are，It is holding the history and the reality，If not always been deadlocked，I do not know when to bridge。

　　去朝鲜吧，你会珍惜眼下。

To north Korea,，You will cherish for now。