了解一个国家最好的方式有3种：读书、旅行和聊天。在出发去秘鲁前，我通读了市面上能够找到的为数不多几本关于这个南美古国的书籍。可真正让我触摸到秘鲁文化血肉的，却是在一个多月的秘鲁之旅中结识到的形形色色的秘鲁人：有在修道院中邂逅的电影导演，有专注于发掘秘鲁味道的名厨，有在广场上绝食抗议的矿工，还有在雨林中的工作的草药巫师，以及只会讲西班牙语却依然礼敬关公的第三代华人移民……他们在高原田间、在沙漠废墟、在旅社酒吧、在随处可见的中餐馆里，就着一杯又一杯古柯茶蒸腾的热气，向我娓娓道来他们所认识的秘鲁，一个更为真实奇妙的神奇国度。

Knowledge of a country of the best way to have 3 kinds：reading、Travel and chat。Before going off to Peru，I read through the available on the market to find the few a few book about the South American of the ancient books。Can really let me touch to Peru culture of flesh and blood，But in more than a month of Peru's trip to meet the variety of Peru：In the monastery encounter in a movie director，Have focused on the flavor of Peru discover chefs，A hunger strike on the square of the miners，And in the rainforests in the work of the herbal wizard，And only speak Spanish but still worship the duke guan third generation of Chinese immigrants……They in the plateau field、In the desert ruins、In the hotel bar、In one of the ubiquitous in Chinese restaurants，It with a cup of tea and a cup of cocaine transpiration heat，To me explain what they know of Peru，A more real wonderful magic kingdom。

　第1杯：四个秘鲁、羊驼、青铜及中国 1 cup：Four Peru、Sheep camel、Bronze and China

　　地理条件决定生活方式，生活方式催生文化模式。四个地理上的秘鲁，就产生了四个文化上分歧很大的秘鲁。时至今日，这个国家里的大多数问题无法得到解决的原因也正在于此。任何一个解决问题的方案都不可能适用于全部四个地区，因此，他们虽然清楚地知道症结所在，却无能为力。

The geographical condition decision way of life，Lifestyle ecbolic culture mode。Four of geographical Peru，Produce the four culture differences in Peru。today，Most of the problems in this country can't be solved causes and just that。Any a solution for the problems are may not apply to all four areas，so，Though they clearly know that problem，Of, but can do little about。

　　来到秘鲁首都利马之后，我拨出的第一个电话是给路易斯•隆布列拉教授的。他是秘鲁乃至整个拉丁美洲最出色的考古学家和人类文化学家，曾经担任过秘鲁国家文化委员会的主席。

Came to after Lima, the capital，I dial out first call is for Louis•RON, the Bristol professor。He is Peru and the whole of Latin America's most excellent archaeologists and human culture scientist，Once served as chairman of the board of the national culture of Peru。

　　当我走进隆布列拉教授摆满书籍文献的客厅时，一杯澄绿的古柯茶摆在了我的面前。“古柯是和古代秘鲁文明关系最密切的一种植物，就像你们中国的茶。对普通人来说它是日常的饮料，对古代的恰斯基信使来说它是提神解乏的兴奋剂，对过去的祭司和今天的巫师来说它是占卜和通灵的媒介，而对美国缉毒署来说它是提炼可卡因的原料。”老教授满头银发却有着安第斯山岩般棱角分明的面容，看我听到可卡因的时候愣了一下，他笑着说：“放心吧，古柯茶不但对人体无害，还能帮助克服高原反应，等到了安第斯山区你就更离不开它了。”我尝了一口，味道非常独特，有种奇异的香气黏着在口鼻间经久不散。

When I walked into the lung, Bristol's literature professor books when the sitting room，A cup of green tea in the clear the cocaine before me。“Coca is ancient Peruvian civilization and the most closely related a plant，As you Chinese tea。On ordinary people, it is the daily drink，In the just, another messenger, it is refreshing the refreshment of doping，For the past the priests and today's wizards to it is the medium of divination and channeling，And for the United States, it's JiDuShu refine cocaine materials。”The old professor three-conrnered andes like the cliffs are clean-cut face，See I heard the cocaine momentarily，He said with a smile：“Rest assured that，Coca tea not only harmless to the human body，Still can help overcome plateau response，In the andes mountains you more from it。”I tasted a，Taste is very unique，Have a strange fragrance in the muzzle JingJiuBuSan between defect。

　　定了定神，我提出准备好的第一个问题：“每个国家都有自己区别于他国的文化性格和气质，可我一直很难从文化上找出秘鲁人、玻利维亚人、厄瓜多尔人和哥伦比亚人的不同。你觉得什么是秘鲁的文化人格呢？”

After a pause，I put in the prepared the first question：“Every country has their own different from other countries, cultural character and temperament，But I have been hard to find out from the cultural peruvians、Bolivia people、Ecuador and Colombia's different。Do you think what is Peru's cultural personality？”

　　“这个问题很有趣！事实上，我也区分不出来。有时候从口音可以猜出来这是哪个国家的人，但是你知道，受教育程度越高口音就越少，所以这不足为据。秘鲁并没有一个统一的文化人格，因为它分为地理差异极其悬殊的四个自然文化区域。可以说，我们有四个秘鲁！ 从西往东说，首先是狭长的太平洋沿岸地区，这里虽然临海却是世界上最干旱的沙漠地区之一。”

“This problem is very interesting！In fact，I also distinguish between not to come out。Sometimes accent can guess out from which country this is，But you know，Education by the higher the degree of the less accent，So this BuZuWeiJu。Peru and not a unified cultural personality，Because it is divided into geographical differences extremely wide four natural culture area。Can say，We have four Peru！ From west to east said，First is long and narrow the Pacific coast region，Here though linhai is the most arid desert regions。”

　　“沙漠？！海边的沙漠？”我怀疑自己是不是听错了。

“desert？！The desert by the sea？”I doubt if you listen to the wrong。

　　“对，就是沙漠！这里的气候受到源自南极的洪堡寒流和西部突然抬升的安第斯山脉的影响，几乎不能形成降雨。幸好安第斯山的融雪形成河流，在沙漠中冲出了很多绿洲谷地，才养育了纳斯卡、奇穆、莫切等古老文明。利马城也是建在一块谷地上，这里的贫民区里有很多房屋没有修屋顶，就是因为从来不下雨。”

“to，Is desert！The climate here is derived from the South Pole Humboldt cold snap and western suddenly uplift of the influence of the andes mountains，Almost can't into rain。Fortunately, the andes of melting snow forming rivers，In the desert oasis out of the many valleys，To raise the nextel、Jose mourinho's、Don't cut of the ancient civilization, etc。The city is built in Lima a valley，Here in the slum of many homes are not fix the roof，It is because never rain。”

　　飞机降落的时候我确实看到很多这样的房子，当时还以为正在施工中呢。我点点头，插话道：“利马的气候是有些古怪，总是阴沉沉的，有个作家曾把利马的天空形容成死鲸鱼腹部般的灰白。”

The plane landed, I do see a lot of this kind of house，At that time thought is in course of construction。I nodded，Interrupted to say：“The climate is some weird Lima，Always gloomy，A writer ever put Lima sky described as dead whale belly of gray。”

　　隆布列拉教授笑了笑说：“对，挺像的。可如果天气晴朗了，在利马任何一个角落都可以看到西边天空中悬浮的安第斯山。西班牙人越海而来，首选海岸地区发展势力，因此这里是秘鲁最欧化和现代化的部分。而第二个区域—高海拔山区（原文是la sierra，指锯齿状的高峰）则是秘鲁最欠发达和最保守的地区。这里的自然条件严酷、耕地面积小，却是古代秘鲁早期文明的发源地。第三个地区是山地，包括哺育了印加帝国的圣谷地区和诸多高原文明的故乡——的的喀喀湖区，是古秘鲁的核心地带。这里生活的克丘亚人和阿依玛拉人还保持着自己的语言和习俗，很多古代的歌曲、舞蹈、戏剧还都活在他们的生活中。最后一个地带就是亚马逊雨林，这里繁盛的动植物种群决定了这里的传统文化是以渔猎为基础的自然崇拜。浩瀚无边的雨林为这种脆弱的文化提供了很好庇护。前不久，电视上报道说发现了一支丛林部落，他们赤身裸体，用弓箭和有毒的吹箭袭击靠近营地的外来者。这一幕和五百年前西班牙人所看到的景象完全一样。”

RON, Bristol professor smiled and said：“to，Quite like the。But if the weather is fine，In a corner Lima any can be seen in the sky on the west of suspended the andes。The Spanish and the sea，Preferred coast development forces，So here is the most European and modernization of Peru's part。And the second area-high altitude mountains（The original is la sierra，Refers to the jagged peaks）Is the most owes the developed and the Peruvian conservative areas。The harsh natural conditions here、Cultivated land area is small，It is the birthplace of the ancient Peruvian early civilization。The third area is mountainous，Including has nurtured the Inca empire holy valley area and many plateau, hometown of the civilization of the KaKaHu area，Is the core area of the ancient Peru。Here's QiuYa o and life in Myra people still keep his language and customs，Many ancient song、dance、Drama also are living in their life。Finally a zone is the amazon rainforest，Here the animal and plant population decided the prosperous here of traditional culture is the basis of fishing and hunting nature worship。The vast expanse of rainforests as the culture of this fragile provides a good shelter。Not long ago，Television reports said found a jungle tribe，They were naked，With bow and arrow attack near the toxic blow camp of an outsider。This scene and five hundred years ago by the Spanish the scene are exactly the same。”

　　地理条件决定生活方式，生活方式催生文化模式。四个地理上的秘鲁，就产生了四个文化上分歧很大的秘鲁。时至今日，这个国家里的大多数问题无法得到解决的原因也正在于此。任何一个解决问题的方案都不可能适用于全部四个地区，因此，他们虽然清楚的知道症结所在，却无能为力。

The geographical condition decision way of life，Lifestyle ecbolic culture mode。Four of geographical Peru，Produce the four culture differences in Peru。today，Most of the problems in this country can't be solved causes and just that。Any a solution for the problems are may not apply to all four areas，so，Although they know problem，Of, but can do little about。

　　拉美人在自己的身份认知上好像都有些迷茫。我在墨西哥做过一年的访问学者，研究的题目就是帕斯和富恩特斯那一代人寻找墨西哥文化之根的探索。他们在父系的欧洲文化和母系的印第安文化之间也纠结徘徊了很久。但墨西哥人远没有秘鲁那么纷繁复杂的文化，他们的文化身份非常简单而清晰，那是一种马的文化。而秘鲁的文化出自另一种动物——羊驼！羊驼是骆驼的表兄弟，可以生活在高海拔地区。它是古代秘鲁人驯化的家畜，是他们动物脂肪和奶的主要来源，皮毛可以制衣纺线，同时还是惟一的驮兽和不可或缺的祭品。对古秘鲁人来说，羊驼就是猪马牛羊的混合体，它背负了文明的发展，即便是西班牙人带来的欧洲家畜也无法取代羊驼的经济地位和文化价值。直到今天，它依然是秘鲁最重要的动物。实际上如果从羊驼的角度来看，古代秘鲁的文化传承非但没有被外来文明打断，反而延伸到现代秘鲁。

Latin America in his own identity as a cognitive some confusion。I'm in Mexico do a year visiting scholars，Research topic is pastor and FuEnTeSi generation looking for Mexico cultural roots exploration。They in patriarchal European culture and maternal Indian culture also had a long strands between wandering。But Mexico people far from Peru so the complexity of the culture，Their cultural identity is very simple and clear，That's a horse of culture。And the culture of Peru from another animal-sheep camel！Sheep camel is Cousins of camels，Life in high altitude。It is the ancient peruvians domesticated livestock，Is their animal fats and the main source of milk，Fur clothing can spin，At the same time or only carry the beast and the indispensable offerings。The ancient Peruvian people，Sheep camel is a pig mixture of cattle and sheep horse，It carried the development of civilization，Even if is Spanish brought Europe also cannot replace the sheep TuoDe livestock economic status and cultural value。Until today，It is still the most important animal Peru。In fact if TuoDe from sheep perspective，Ancient Peruvian cultural heritage of not only is not foreign civilization interrupt，But extended to modern Peru。

　　“我有一件T恤衫，它的图案是一只羊驼轻蔑地啐了身穿铠甲的西班牙武士满脸口水，旁边印着一行字：两个世界相遇！看来很多拉美人都拿羊驼作为印第安文明的象征，这种温良却坚忍的动物和秘鲁人确实很像啊！”说道这里我们都笑了。

“I have a T-shirt，Its design was a sheep camel disdainfully xi the Spanish warrior with armor with saliva，Next to print a line of words：Two world meet！Seems many Latin American men with sheep camel as the symbol of Indian civilization，This kind of animal and fortitude but considerate peruvians do like it！”Here we all laughed said。

　　“我在博物馆里看到了大量的铜器，有黄铜、金铜合金，甚至还有一些青铜器，它们的年代远比印加帝国久远，可是为什么古秘鲁没有进入更有效率的青铜时代呢？”我提了一个长久以来一直困扰我的问题。

“I see in the museum of the vessels of brass，A brass、Gold copper alloy，And even some bronzes，Their s than the Inca empire long，But why ancient Peru didn't get into more efficient Bronze Age？”I asked a have long been troubling me。