有机食品热的冷思考 Organic food hot cold thinking

　

　编者按： Editor's note：随着国人物质生活水平的不断提高，吃得安全、吃得健康已经成为百姓的新诉求。在这一背景下，有机食品成为百姓餐桌上的新宠。按照相关标准，有机食品在生产过程中严格禁止使用各种化肥、农药、激素等，有机食品的产量低、价格高，是个高门槛的消费领域，市场上真正的有机食品也并不多见。不过，近年来假冒有机食品却屡见不鲜，市场乱象令人眼花缭乱，而普通消费者虽然食品安全意识空前觉醒，但对有机食品的认识总体还较为模糊，对有机生活的追求也多处于盲从状态。本期专题报道期望能让读者更清晰地了解有机食品生产，更理性地看待有机食品消费，同时呼吁农业生产朝着可持续发展方向转型。(《半月谈》2012年第16期)

As people material life level unceasing enhancement，Eat safety、Eat healthy people has become a new appeal。In this context，Organic food become people on the table on the to be bestowed favor on newly。In accordance with the relevant standard，Organic food in the production process strictly prohibited to use all kinds of chemical fertilizer、pesticide、Hormone, etc，Organic food production is low、Price high，Is a high threshold consumption field，The market of the real organic food also does not see more。but，In recent years, fake organic food is not uncommon，Market disorderly like dazzling，And the average consumer food safety consciousness unprecedented awakening，But to the understanding of the organic food overall still relatively fuzzy，The pursuit of the organic life also in bigotry state。This special report expected to give the reader a clear understanding of the organic food production，More rational to treat organic food consumption，Also called on agricultural production towards sustainable development direction transformation。(《半月谈》In 2012 the 16th period)

　　有机产品种植困难，加工规范，一般产量较低。然而，从市场上放眼望去，打着各种纯天然、无污染、无添加剂等招牌的“有机食品”不在少数。这些“有机食品”都是真的吗？本刊记者在多地进行了采访调研。

Organic products planting difficult，Processing standard，The general yield is low。however，Look from the market，Under the various natural、pollution-free、No additives of signs“Organic food”Is not a few。these“Organic food”Are really?？This reporter interviewed in many research。

　　

市场混乱，真假难辨 Market chaos，True and false failure

　　在江西省南昌市多家超市内，记者看到标着“有机”字样和相关标志的大米、蔬菜、水果以及酱油等产品随处可见。但是仔细辨认，却发现其中问题不少。

In nanchang city, jiangxi province more than in supermarkets，The reporter sees marked“organic”The words and related mark of rice、vegetables、Fruit and soy sauce and other products can be seen everywhere。But carefully identify，But found that many problems among them。

　　例如，同一品牌5公斤装的大米，有“某某优质盘锦大米”和“某某优质有机盘锦大米”两种包装。前者标价为39.9元，后者价格为47.9元。算下来，普通优质大米的价格为3.99元/斤，而所谓的有机大米价格则为4.79元/斤。该超市的售货人员坦陈，这并不是真正的有机大米，只是打上了这个标志而已，“真正的有机大米比这个要贵得多”。

For example，The same brand 5 KGS rice，have“Such and such high quality rice merchant”and“Such and such high quality organic rice merchant”Two kinds of packaging。The former price is 39.9 yuan，The latter price is 47.9 yuan。Count down，Common high quality rice price is 3.99 yuan/catty，The so-called organic rice price is 4.79 yuan/catty。This supermarket sales personnel pudong，This is not the real organic rice，Just hit the mark just，“The real organic rice would cost far more than this”。

　　在现场购买大米的市民王女士表示：“现在市场上打着‘有机’字样的产品越来越多，也不知道哪些是真的哪些是假的？一般情况下，带‘有机’字样的价格都要高一些。”

In the field of citizens buy rice ms wang said：“Now playing the market‘organic’"Products more and more，Also don't know which is really what is false？generally，belt‘organic’"Prices will be higher。”

　　江西省出入境检验检疫局认证管理处处长兰祥光告诉记者，一般情况下，市场上有机大米的零售价格应该在20元左右一斤，如果与这个价格相差太大，就很可能有问题。

Jiangxi entry-exit inspection and quarantine LanXiangGuang authentication management office director told reporters，generally，The market the retail price of organic rice should be controlled in 20 yuan a kilo，If the price difference is too big，It is very possible to have a problem。

　　在重庆渝北区的一家大型超市，记者同样看见各种“有机稻米”“有机蔬菜”陈列在货架上。细细察看之下，在包装精美、价格昂贵的莴笋、空心菜等“有机蔬菜”包装上，只有商品价签和所谓的认证标志，上面连产地、生产日期等基本信息都是空白。

YuBeiOu in chongqing a large supermarket，Reporter also saw all kinds of“Organic rice”“Organic vegetables”On display on the shelf。Under spied，In the packaging exquisite、Price expensive and lettuce、Water convolvulus, etc“Organic vegetables”packaging，Only commodity price tag and the so-called authentication marks，Above even origin、The date of production, and other basic information is blank。

　　记者询问超市工作人员这种“有机蔬菜”与普通蔬菜有何不同，工作人员也不甚了了：“反正就是营养高、品质好呗，价格当然要贵一点咯。”

Reporters asked about the supermarket staff this“Organic vegetables”What is the difference and common vegetables，Staff also unclear：“It is of high nutrition、Good quality bai，Of course the price is more expensive to cough up。”

　　业内人士介绍，许多商家利用消费者对食品安全的诉求大做文章，炒作“绿色”“有机”等概念，从中获取利润。

The personage inside course of study introduces，A lot of businessmen are used to consumer food safety make appeal，hype“green”“organic”Concepts such as，Gain profit。

　　在北京庄胜崇光百货地下一层超市，“有机农庄”品牌的圣女果有机码一应俱全。而另一些产品的包装上却贴着企业自制的白底绿边防伪追溯标志。当几种产品摆放在一起时，外观都差不多，消费者很难辨认个中差异。

In Beijing sogo department store underground a layer of the supermarket，“Organic farm”Brand of cherry tomatoes organic code from soup to nuts。And some on the packaging of products but stick enterprise self-made white green edge tracing anti-counterfeiting mark。When several products put together，Appearance is almost the same，Consumers is difficult to identify the discrepancy。

　　“市场上常见的违规做法有两种，一是本来没有通过有机认证的企业却在自己的产品包装上打上‘有机’的标志，做虚假宣传；二是企业尽管做了认证，但在生产过程中却没有严格按照相关标准来操作，使生产出来的产品没有达到‘有机’的要求。”兰祥光说。

“The market of the common illegal practice there are two，One is were not through the organic certification enterprise but in his own product packaging on playing‘organic’Sign of，Do false propaganda；The second is the enterprise although do the authentication，But in the production process but not in strict accordance with the relevant standards to operate，Production out of the product does not meet‘organic’requirements。”LanXiangGuang said。

　　

有机难种，认证好拿 Organic difficult kind of，The authentication good take

　　实际上，真正的有机产品并不好种。重庆市涪陵区龙桥街道农业服务中心副主任傅严培告诉记者，有机农作物种植风险比较高，要真正达到有机标准，投入的成本十分高昂。

In fact，The real organic products is not good kind of。Chongqing FuLingOu LongQiao street agricultural service center, deputy director of the FuYan culture told reporters，Organic crops planting risk is higher，To really achieve organic standard，Investment cost is very high。

　　傅严培给记者算了一笔账：以有机水稻为例，如果严格按照有机标准生产，一般而言每亩产量只能达到两三百斤，远低于目前一般水稻每亩1000斤的产量；同时有机水稻种植劳动力、技术投入也远远高于一般水稻种植。平均一季水稻亩均投入需要7000元以上，如果遇到病虫害或洪涝、干旱等自然灾害，损失相当惨重。

FuYan culture to reporter calculate a bill：With organic rice as an example，If in strict accordance with the organic standard production，Generally yield per acre can only achieve LiangSanBaiJin，Far below the current general rice RMB $1000 jins production；At the same time the organic paddy rice planting labor、Technology investment also far higher than general rice planting。Average one season rice MuJun investment needs 7000 yuan of above，If meet the plant diseases and insect pests or floods、Drought and other natural disasters，Loss is quite heavy。

　　为了提高有机农业生产附加值，傅严培曾在龙桥街道蔬菜生产基地试点组织生产了200多亩有机蔬菜，经过一段时间后发现，在目前的农业生产条件和生态环境下，生产出真正的有机蔬菜难度非常大，而且感觉认证机构也不靠谱。这些机构声称只要给钱就给认证，每年要保持认证，只需缴纳“手续费”。因此，有机蔬菜试点生产一年后，傅严培就不得不放弃了。

In order to improve the organic agricultural production and added value，FuYan culture CengZaiLong bridge street vegetable production base pilot organize production more than 200 mu organic vegetables，After a period of time found，In the present agricultural production conditions and ecological environment，Produce the real organic vegetables difficulty is very big，And feel the authentication institutions also does not depend on the spectrum。The agency says as long as give money to give the authentication，Every year to keep the authentication，Need pay“commission”。therefore，Organic vegetables pilot production a year later，FuYan culture will have to give up。

　　记者在重庆涪陵、长寿等地采访发现，如果要想仿冒有机水稻，成本低很多，而收益却非常丰厚。据两地一些基层农技人员介绍，在一些地方，获得一个有机水稻认证，花钱就能买到，认证费用一般只在10万元以下，而获得所谓有机认证之后，水稻价格平均能从每斤1.2元上涨到8元至10元左右，利润非常丰厚。

Reporter in chongqing fuling、Longevity, interview found，If you want to counterfeit organic paddy rice，Low cost a lot of，While the benefits are very rich。According to both some basic technique personnel is introduced，In some places，Get a organic rice the authentication，Money can buy，The authentication expenses in 100000 yuan of the following only commonly，And get the so-called after organic certification，Rice prices by an average of 1.2 yuan per catty from up to $8 to 10 yuan，Profit is very rich。

　　此外，当前认证机构较多，彼此之间的竞争十分激烈，由此导致乱象丛生。

In addition，The current the authentication institutions more，The competition between each other is very fierce，Thus lead to disorderly like cluster。

　　“认证机构如果是企业化运作，就要追求效益，所以有些机构可能就会尽量压低认证费用，比如安排检查的人数、次数减少，这就使认证过程出现了漏洞。”一位业内人士表示，不少认证机构还存在“重认证、轻管理”的问题，没有条件开展有效的跟踪抽查。

“The authentication institutions if it is operation of enterprise，Is about pursuing benefit，So some institutions may try to depress the authentication expenses，Such as the number of arrange for examination、fewer，This makes the authentication process appeared holes。”A personage inside course of study says，A lot of the authentication institutions still exist“Heavy the authentication、Light management”problems，No conditions to carry out effective tracking check。

　　中国农业科学院农产品加工研究所魏益民教授指出，政府部门应保证对认证机构的监管和制约，在评定具有认证资质单位的同时，还要建立淘汰机制，适时清除不达标或违规的认证机构。

Chinese academy of agricultural science institute of agricultural products processing WeiYiMin professor noted that，The government should guarantee to the authentication mechanism of supervision and restriction，In judging has the authentication qualification units at the same time，Must build selection mechanism，Timely clear substandard or illegal the authentication institutions。

　　

监管松弛，贻害行业 Supervision relaxation，Cause trouble to industry

　　“有机食品的生产成本要高出普通食品许多。”广西八桂田园生产部负责人韦志林说，以有机菜心为例，种植一亩菜心所需的肥料、人工、防虫设施、认证管理费等大约为7000元，因此每公斤有机菜心的生产成本约为14元，是普通菜心的几倍。

“Organic food production cost will be higher than normal food many。”Guangxi BaGui rural production WeiZhiLin person in charge said，With organic vegetables, for example，Planting a mu green tender the fertilizer、artificial、Insect-resistant facilities、The authentication management fee, etc is about 7000 yuan，Therefore per kg vegetables in organic production cost of about 14 yuan，Is common green tender several times。

　　正因有机食品生产成本高，一些生产者受利益驱动，很难严格按标准生产。在山东、广西一些有机蔬菜生产基地，个别农民坦承“为了增产，使用过违规的化肥、农药”，也有农民坦言“尽管有生产标准，但实际操作就靠自律，谁来监管？”

Because of organic food production cost is high，Some producers benefit drive by，It is difficult to strictly according to standard production。In shandong、Guangxi some organic vegetable production base，Individual farmer admits“In order to increase，Used illegal chemical fertilizer、pesticide”，Also have farmers said“Despite the production standard，But the actual operation depends on self-discipline，Who will supervision？”

　　“有机产品全程监管存在交叉或空当。”山东肥城市农业局副局长赵胜文表示，农业部门管生产，认监委管认证，工商部门管流通，卫生部门管餐桌，哪个部门都说得上话，但哪个部门也不是完全说了算。“只要有一个部门监管缺位，就管不好有机食品”。

“Organic products full supervision exist cross or gap。”Shandong lager agriculture bureau deputy director ZhaoShengWen said，The department of agriculture pipe production，WeiGuan certification and accreditation authentication，The ministry of commerce and pipe flow，Department of health tube table，Which departments say up words，But which department are not completely have the final say。“As long as there is a department supervision vacancy，Organic food is tube is bad”。

　　监管部门的工作人员则向记者反映，由于目前我国有机食品生产一般规模较小、零星分散，这些情况也给监管带来了不便，容易形成漏洞。同时记者也感觉到，监管部门往往对分辨有机食品的真伪不够重视，认为食品只要保证质量安全，吃不出毛病就可以了。

Supervision department staff to the reporter is reflected，Because at present our country organic food production generally smaller、fragmented，These circumstances also brought inconvenience to supervision，Easy to create loopholes。At the same time, reporter also feel，Regulators often to distinguish authenticity of organic food is not enough attention，Think food as long as the guarantee quality and safety，Eat not to go wrong is ok。

　　由于监管乏力，刚受到消费者青睐的有机食品就开始遭遇信任危机，给真正想发展有机产业的地区和企业造成了较大影响。

Due to the weak supervision，Just by the consumers of organic food began to encounter crisis of confidence，To really want to develop organic industry area and caused a great influence on the enterprise。

　　从事有机生产的山西忻州市三晋庄园食品有限公司总经理张世元表示，长远来看，有机食品前景大好。但是当前国内的有机食品市场秩序混乱，鱼目混珠、高价叫卖等问题层出不穷，消费者的购买信心受到打击，严重影响了有机农业的健康发展。

Engaged in organic production of shanxi xinzhou city SanJin farm food co., LTD., general manager ZhangShiYuan said，The long run，Organic food good prospects。But the current domestic organic food market order confusion，Pass away the sham as the genuine、Their high problems emerge in endlessly，Consumers purchase confidence hit，Seriously affected the healthy development of organic agriculture。

　　江西万载县有机农业办公室副主任陈湖南认为，现在国内有机食品市场混乱，如果不严格管理，将来可能会积重难返。目前万载生产的有机食品80%以上都是出口到国外市场。

Jiangxi WanZaiXian organic agriculture, deputy director of the office of hunan think Chen，Now the domestic organic food market chaos，If not strict management，The future may text。At present all load production of organic food more than 80% are exported to foreign markets。

　　“假钞多了，真钞也会贬值。”陈湖南说，希望国家认监委、工商、农业和其他职能部门一起，加强有机食品市场的监督管理工作，完善相关的法律法规，监管好生产基地和消费市场，建立起从田间到餐桌的全程监管体系。(半月谈记者 郭强 李松 潘林青)

“Funny money than the，True chao will depreciate。”Hunan Chen said，Hope by state certification and accreditation、commerce、Agriculture and other functional departments together，Strengthen the organic food market supervision and administration work，Improving related laws and regulations，Supervision good production base and consumer market，Set up from the field, come to the table the supervision system。(半月谈 reporter GuoJiang LiSong pan LinQing)