烧烤是北方夏季里街头常见的吃食。傍晚，一盘烤得香喷喷的肉串，加上一杯冰凉的扎啤，北京街头不计其数的饭馆门前，成了市民们消暑聚会的场所。

Barbecue is the north in summer street common food.In the evening,A plate of baked to the flavor of the meat string,With a glass of cold beer on draft,Beijing street countless restaurant door,Become citizens cultivated gathering places.

　　不过，对于烤串摊主小杨而言，“这行太黑！”6年的从业经历，让他见证了烧烤诸多掺假的秘密。烧烤摊上到底有多少我们不知道的秘密，记者为此暗访调查。

but,For roast string for the vendors xiao Yang,"This line is too black!"Six years of experience,Let him witness the barbecue many adulterate secret.Go up how many we don't know the secret,Reporter therefore investigations survey.

　　烤串师傅 Roast string teacher

　　不吃烧烤摊上的食物 Don't eat the food go up

　　入秋，傍晚时天已微凉。小杨的烤串摊上，已经坐了两三桌客人。两米多长的烤炉旁，身材微胖的小杨对着狭长烤炉里红红的炭火，频繁地翻动着四五十串肉串。他的右手边，烤炉的尽头，一个铁丝网夹里夹着十个骨肉相连，同样不时地被小杨翻动，慢慢由生变熟。此时，炭火正旺，烤炉上的各种肉串很快烤熟，小杨伸手从炉架内侧的作料碗里捏了辣椒面、孜然粒，两三下看似不经意的撒动，均匀沾满了作料的肉串便被放到罩着塑料袋的长方形不锈钢餐盘里，端到了客人的面前。

autumn,In the evening when it has small cool.Xiao Yang roast string on the stand,Had been on the table for two or three guests.Two meters long by oven,Figure micro fat xiao Yang to the long and narrow oven red coals,Frequent flipping the forty or fifty string meat string.His right hand side,Oven at the end of the,A barbed wire clip clip with ten of one's own flesh and blood,Also from time to time by xiao Yang flipping,Slowly cooked by happen.At this time,Burning coals is booming,The oven all kinds of meat string quickly baked,Xiao Yang stretched out his hand from the furnace frame inside the condiments bowl knead a vegetable-based main course/Cumin grain,Under the two seemingly casual and dynamic,Even with the ingredients of meat string was on the cover with plastic bags rectangle stainless steel in the plate,End to the guest before.

　　六年前，二十岁出头的小杨从东北老家到北京投靠亲戚。当时，他的亲戚在双桥一带开了家烤串店，初到北京的小杨在店里帮忙，入了烤串这一行。如今，亲戚的店已经盘给了别人，他则独自承包了另外一家饭馆的烧烤生意。仗着以前在亲戚店里练出来的烤串手艺，加上这家饭馆稍显排场的门面，小杨的烧烤生意一直不错，来来往往的都是常客。

Six years ago,In his early twenties of xiao Yang from the northeast their hometown to Beijing to take refuge in relatives.At that time,His relatives in double bridge area opened home baking series shop,Initial to Beijing xiao Yang helps out in the store,Into the roast string this line.now,Relatives shop have disk to others,He alone is contracted for another restaurant barbecue business.Before the shop by relatives from practice roast string craft,This restaurant with slightly ostentation and extravagance appearance,Xiao Yang barbecue business has been good,Up and down is regular.

　　“我跟你说，这行啊，太黑了！”小杨嘴里叼着半截烟，眯着眼看了看不远处正在吃着烤串的客人们。自从入行，除了尝自己烤串的味道如何，小杨绝对不碰任何烧烤类的食物，“就算跟朋友吃饭、回老家有聚会，我也是一口都不吃。”对此，他的解释是，“干这行的，天天烤，腻了。”

"I tell you,This line of ah,It's too dark!"Xiao Yang in mouth half smoke,Squinted at the nearby is eating roast list of the guests.Since into line,In addition to taste the taste of their roast string,Xiao Yang absolute don't touch any grilled food,"Even if dinner with friends/Back there is a party,I am also a all don't eat."this,His explanation is,"Dry this done,Roast every day,Tired of."

　　其实，更重要的是，他不放心。“倒不是说家家都掺假，没那么严重，但掺假的肯定有。”小杨估计，“掺假”的烧烤摊可能占三成左右，大部分是把鸭胸肉或猪肉与羊肉混穿，“成本在那儿摆着呐，羊肉二十七八块一斤，鸭胸肉是十五块钱左右一斤，猪肉也差不多，就算一个串里有三分之一不是羊肉，那也能省不少呢。”刚开始单干时，小杨每天自己去双桥新发地买羊肉、穿肉串。后来实在累得扛不住，便在新发地买穿好的肉串，也由此有了被骗的经历。“一开始买肉的那家不干了，所以我就换了一家，刚开始的几天就有客人说肉串的味儿没以前好。”后来，小杨才从另外一个烤串师傅口中得知，那家的串里“掺了假”。

In fact,More important is,He doesn't trust."Not that everybody adulterate,Not so serious,But the adulteration must have."Xiao Yang estimate,"adulterate"Go may account for thirty percent,Most is the duck breast meat or pork and mutton mixed wear,"Cost there pendulum here,Mutton ErShiQiBaKuai 1 catty,Duck breast meat is 15 yuan a kilo,Pork also almost,Even if a string has a third not mutton,It can also save a lot of it."Just started when go it alone,Xiao Yang every day to XinFaDe twinbridge buy mutton/Wear meat string.Later it was too tired to carry live,Then in the XinFaDe buy wear good meat string,And thus have swindled experience."A began to buy meat that quit,So I changed a,For the first few days, have the guest says meat string flavor didn't before."later,Xiao Yang just from another roast string that master mouth,The string in the"Mixed a false".

　　小杨说到自己被蒙的经历，脸上露出一丝窘迫的神情。更让他觉得窘迫的是，即便是他这种入行已久的“老手”也很难一眼看破这种“掺了假”的肉串，“颜色差不多，掺得量也不大。”烤串师傅看不出来，除非食客们的味觉很灵敏，否则更不会察觉，“像我们做的烧烤，一般穿好之后都会用腌料腌一下，要是赶上有人用羊肉精腌，那就更‘真’了。”就是因为有了前车之鉴，小杨“考察”后，便开始固定在一家他觉得信得过的摊位上“进货”。

Xiao Yang said to his blindfolded experience,Face a little embarrassed expression.More let he felt embarrassed is,Even if he is already a long time of the entrants"veteran"Also it is difficult to see through the eye"Mixed a false"Meat string,"Color almost,Blending to quantity is not large also."Roast string teacher can not see clearly,Unless diners sense of taste is very sensitive,Otherwise more won't perceive,"As we do barbecue,General wear after good will marinade for once,If I catch up with someone with mutton fine salt,That would be much‘true’the."Is because of the lessons drawn from others' mistakes,Xiao Yang"investigation"after,Began to fixed in a he felt trustworthy stalls"purchase".

　　肉摊老板 RouTan boss

　　掺假都是买家要求的 Adulterate are buyers requirements

　　在双桥新发地出售生鲜肉类的大厅里，进门前两排是专营牛羊肉的摊位，每个摊位前都挂着写有“羊肉串”、“板筋”等字样的招牌。摊位的案板上，一捆捆的烤串用细竹扦，暗示着这些摊位既出售当日的鲜肉，也做穿肉串的“手工生意”。

In XinFaDe twinbridge sell fresh meat in the hall,In the two rows is specializes in beef and mutton stall,Each booth are hung before writing"Shish kebab"/"Plate reinforcement"Such words signs.Booth chopping board,The string of baked with fine bamboo spike,Implies that these booths selling both on the day of fresh meat,Also do wear of meat string"Manual business".

　　老张就是其中一位摊主。说起那些给肉串里掺假的同行，老张嘴一撇，“掺假的，有，但咱不能干，挣钱不能昧良心。”但老张不觉得是同行们往肉串里主动掺假，“烤串摊的人来进货，有买肉回去自己穿的，他们自己穿怎么掺假我就不知道了，那些直接买掺了假的串的，基本都是他们自己要求的。”说罢，老张一边切着案板上的羊肉，一边低声说，“有回我看见他们穿肉串，案子上放着两堆切好的肉，每串都是从这堆拿几块、从那堆拿几块、再从这堆拿几块，掺着穿，什么肉都有。”

Lao zhang is one of the vendors.Speaking of those who give meat string in adulterate peers,The old mouth one iota,"Of adulterate,have,But I can't do,Money can't MeiLiangXin."But don't think that is old colleagues went to meat string in active adulterate,"Roast string stand people to purchase,Have buy meat back to their wear,They wear how to adulterate I don't know,Those who buy direct blending fake list of,Basic it is their own requirements."say,Lao zhang side cut a chopping board of mutton,Side in a low voice,"Do you have a return I saw they wear meat string,On the case of two slices of meat,Each string from this pile of take several pieces/From the pile of take several pieces/And from this pile of take several pieces,Blending to wear,What meat has."

　　老张坦言，往肉串里掺假早就不是什么新鲜事，“更神的是羊腰子也有假的”。在老张的冰柜里，最上层是一块已经冻得硬如石块的牛腰子，如盘子般大小，略显椭圆，上面一块块一元钱硬币大小的块状物，是牛腰子与羊腰子的明显区别。假羊腰子，便是由牛腰子做成的。

Lao zhang said,To meat string in adulterate early is not what's new,"God is more sheep kidney and the false".In the old piece in the freezer,The top is a block has frozen hard as stone cattle the kidneys,As if the size,Slightly elliptic,Above one yuan coin size pieces of cake,The kidneys are cattle and sheep of the kidneys of obvious difference.False sheep kidney,From cattle is made of the kidneys.

　　对于牛腰子如何变成羊腰子，老张没看见过，但每天一大早去新发地上货的小杨看见过。“牛腰子大，羊腰子小，跟馒头片差不多大，我看着人家拿刀横着一切，把牛腰子上面那些小块都片下去，再片几刀，片到羊腰子那么大，外边包上一块羊尾油，跟真的羊腰子一样。”小杨说，看完整个过程后，“我都惊了！”在烧烤摊上，烤羊腰的均价在每个10块钱左右，小杨的成本价是每个8块钱，而用牛腰子“做”成的羊腰子进价只要每个3块钱。小杨说，“我有个老乡进货也被蒙过，是裹着羊油的猪腰子。基本上，凡是明显便宜的羊腰子都可能不是真羊腰，都有假。”

For cattle kidneys, how to become a sheep kidney,Lao zhang never seen,But early in the morning to XinFaDe loading of xiao Yang seen."Cattle kidneys, big,Sheep kidney small,With steamed bread piece almost big,I looked at the somebody else, and took the knife across all,The ox kidneys top those small pieces all tablet down,A few knife to slice,Tablet to sheep kidneys so big,Outside the bag a entered oil,To really like sheep kidneys."Xiao Yang said,Look at the whole process,"I all surprised!"Go up in,Roast mutton lumbar average in each 10 yuan,Xiao Yang is the cost price of every 8 dollars,And with cattle kidneys"do"Into sheep kidney bid as long as each 3 dollars.Xiao Yang said,"I have a person of hometown purchase was also have had,Is wrapped mutton fat pig kidneys.basically,All obvious cheap sheep kidney may not really sheep waist,Are false."

　　新手上路 New beginner comes

　　烤串好不好吃全靠“精”调 Roast string not delicious all by"fine"adjustable

　　离小杨的烤串摊不远，是一家新开不久的小店面，主营面食，老板是一对从河北来的王姓夫妇。为了多挣些钱，夫妇俩决定做些烤串生意，烤了没多久，便因为店里人手不够放弃了。在他们的厨房里，烤炉靠墙放在地上，当初用的调料被装进了箱子。

From xiao Yang roast string stand not far,Is a new open the near a small store,The main pasta,The boss is a pair of couple from hebei to wang.In order to make more money,The couple decided to do some roast string business,Baked before long,And because the store shorthanded gave up.In their kitchen,Ovens rely on a wall on the ground,At the beginning with the seasoning were packed into the box.

　　当小杨的烧烤摊前已经坐满了人时，面食店店主小王正在门口悠闲地抽着烟。就在三四个月前，小王夫妇俩决定支起烤串的炉架后，小王就到老乡开的烧烤摊上“拜师学艺”，用他的话说，“主要学烤串的手法，练火候，人家那些老师傅，单手一抓一翻，至少也得二三十串，我顶多一次翻十串。”而对于至关重要的味道，小王说，“一般都是师傅自己调腌料，每种料放多少，只有师傅自己掌握，所以每家店的烤串味道其实都不大一样。”

When xiao Yang go ago full person,Noodle shop wang is the door leisurely, smoking.In three or four months ago,Wang the couple decided to team up roast list of furnace after frame,Wang went to villagers open, go up"Was apprenticed",In his words,"The main study baking series technique,Practice temperature,People who master craftsman,A single hand to take a turn,At least also get twenty or thirty string,I at most a turn ten series."For the important flavor,Wang said,"The general is the master himself adjustable marinade,Each stock put how many,Only the master their mastery,So every shop roast string taste actually are not the same."

　　学了一个多月，小王带着“学到的皮毛”回到自家店里开始研究自己的腌料。他在网上查到一个腌料的配方，便在给店里进货时专门去了调料区，“十来种调料都买全了”。小王特意打开箱子，拿出了当时买的调料，比较“洋气”的有百里香叶、迷迭香叶、罗勒叶，常见的有沙姜粉、孜然粒、大蒜粉，看起来很“专业”的则有鸡骨浸膏、肉宝王、羊肉精粉、排骨香精等食品添加剂。对于那些食品添加剂，小王介绍，“鸡骨浸膏是做烤翅用的，羊肉精是腌肉串时用的，腌出来很有羊肉味儿，现在也有烤排骨串的，排骨香精可以腌排骨。”他指着直径约12厘米、高20厘米的“肉宝王”说，“这个是最贵的，好像是70块钱，做腌料的时候用，放一点就很香。”小王表示，当时采购这些添加剂时自己都选了最贵的，“贵的就是好的，看着包装什么的比较正规，上面也有厂家名称，这样用着放心。”

Learn more than a month,Wang with"Learn fur"Back to his shop to research their own marinade.He check it on the website a marinade recipe,Then in the store when purchase specially to the condiment area,"Ten to buy all the seasonings all".Wang have opened the box,Took out at that time to buy the seasoning,comparison"Western style"Have thyme bay leaves/rosemary/Basil leaves,Common have sand ginger powder/Cumin grain/Garlic powder,Looks very"professional"Is the chicken bone extract/Meat treasure the king/Mutton fine powder/Chop essence and food additive.For those food additives,Wang introduced,"Chicken bone extract is to be baked with wings,Mutton essence is cured meat string with,Pickled out very mutton smell,Also now have roast pork ribs of the string,Chop essence can be salted pork ribs."He pointed at the diameter about 12 cm/High 20 centimeters of"Meat treasure the king"said,"This is the most expensive,It is 70 dollars,Do marinade with time,Put a little very sweet."Wang said,When purchasing these additives when oneself are chose the most expensive,"Your is good,Look at the packing comparison of what is normal,It also has name of the manufacturer,So with the rest assured."

　　进入夏季，小王的烧烤摊开张了。最初的几天里，他会请客人提提意见，“不少客人说我的烤串调味料的味道太浓，可能是我调腌料时量没把握好，放多了。”尽管小王一直在研究如何改进腌料，但还是无法与大的烧烤摊抗衡，“我们店里算上我就三个人，没法跟人家比，连专门做穿串的人都不给我们穿，嫌我们每天百八十串的太少，人家大摊子都是一天好几千串。”

Entering the summer,Wang go opened.The first few days,He will treat people advise,"Many guests said my roast string seasoning the smell is too strong,May be I adjust marinade amount when not hold good,Put too much."Although wang have been studying how to improve the marinade,But still can't compete with large, go,"Our store is I three people,Can't compared with the family,Even the special do wear list of people will not give we wear,Don't think we every eighty list of too little,Family big stall is a day thousands of string."

　　在新发地市场调料区，不少店家的货架上摆放着一系列以“某某精”命名的产品。一家商铺的老板坦言，“买这些的都是开饭馆的，有的烤串摊也买，再有就是大饭店用的多，像这个牛肉精，炖牛肉什么的往里放一点点，就特别有牛肉味儿。”老板抬手指了指货架最顶端的两排白色罐子，罐身上分别印着“牛肉精”、“羊肉精”、“鸡肉精”等字样，认真地说，“这些东西，咱们自己家做菜可别放，一点儿好处也没有。”

In XinFaDe market condiment area,Many stores shelves in putting a series"So-and-so fine"Named products.Store boss said,"Buy these are open restaurant,Some roast string stand can also buy,Another is the grand hotel with more,Like the beef essence,Beef stew to put a little bit of what,Is especially beef flavor."The boss carry the finger refers to the top shelf two rows of white jar,Tank body printed respectively"Beef fine"/"Mutton fine"/"Chicken essence"Such words,Said earnestly,"These things,Let's own home cook don't put,A little good also have no."

　　常年混迹于烧烤行业的烤串师傅小杨表示，“不新鲜的、变质的肉串基本没有，因为太容易吃出来了，掺猪肉、鸭胸肉的是一部分，最主要的还是加添加剂。”尽管小杨对自己的腌料成分守口如瓶，却也说，“用嫩肉粉的就不算过分了，用羊肉精什么的各种调料一通腌，那得多少有害成分？”

Perennial mixed with barbecue industry roast string teacher xiao Yang said,"Don't fresh/Bad meat string basic no,Because it's too easy to eat out,Mixing pork/Duck breast meat is the part,The main or doping."Although xiao Yang to own marinade ingredients mouth shut,But also said,"With tender meat powder is not too much,With mutton essence of what all kinds of condiments a cured,That much harmful composition?"

　　老张则更加直白，“要我说，能不吃就不吃，非要吃就自己做，自己买肉，看着人家穿，免得掺假，回去自己想辙烤。”本报记者 习楠

Lao zhang is more straightforward,"Want me to say,Can not eat not to eat,Don't want to eat it yourself,Oneself buy meat,Looking at people wear,Lest adulterate,Back to their point to roast."Our reporter XiNan