◎文/CBF记者 郁风

Money text/CBF reporter YuFeng

　　国际运动品牌阿迪达斯决定将在今年晚些时候关闭在中国的唯一直属工厂，这一调整已经开始波及其在华的众多代工商。10家原本为阿迪达斯苏州工厂提供服务的代工商日前接到了将终止代工合同的通知。

International sports brand adidas decided to shut down later this year in China directly under the only factory，This adjustment has begun to spread its in China commerce many generations。10 originally for adidas suzhou factory provides services and commerce generation has received would terminate the generation of labor contract notice。

　　“我们的合作已经持续了10多年，但这次阿迪达斯的做法实在有些不负责任，不仅前后言行不一，而且至合同结束前原本应该给到的数量也大幅削减。”在接受《中国经贸聚焦》记者采访时，上海东隆羽绒制品有限公司（下称东隆）副总经理蒋留红谈到此颇为愤愤不平。东隆正是这10家代工商之一。

“Our cooperation has lasted for more than 10 years，But the adidas practice really some irresponsible，Not only before and after duplicity，And to the contract before the end of the originally should give to the number of slash。”In accepting《Focus on China's economic and trade》A reporter to interview，Shanghai east long feather products co., LTD（Said east long）Deputy general manager jiang left red when it comes to this rather feel aggrieved。East long it is this 10 generations of commerce。

　　有关专家表示，随着中国劳动力等成本的上升，原有的“中国制造”中低端劳动密集型产业的优势正在丧失，类似阿迪达斯这样的外资制造业撤离的案例将越来越多，中国的代工产业亟需转型。

Experts said，With China's labor cost such as rise，original“Made in China”ZhongDiDuan labor-intensive industry advantage is lost，Similar adidas such foreign manufacturing evacuation cases will be more and more，China's foundry industry transformation of need。

　

　阿迪达斯代工商的愤怒 Adidas generation of anger and commerce

　　据蒋留红介绍，阿迪达斯4月份告知他们，10家代工商将分别于今年10月份和明年4月份正式终止代工合同，其中东隆将于今年10月份终止合作，产能100％为阿迪达斯服务的则是明年4月份终止合同。

According to Chiang leave red is introduced，Adidas April told them，10 generation will be conducted on commerce in October this year and next year April formally ended generation of labor contract，The Middle East will be long in October this year end cooperation，Capacity 100% for adidas service is terminate the contract in April next year。

　　“按照我们的合同条款约定，阿迪达斯要终止代工合作需在半年之前提出，从实际情况来看，4月距合同结束的10月也确有半年。”蒋留红告诉记者，阿迪达斯和东隆的代工合同是于2006年签订的，属于长效合同，此后一直没有签订新的合同。

“According to our contract terms agreed，Adidas to terminate OEM cooperation should be put forward in half a year before，From the actual situation，From the end of the contract on April 10 month also have half a year。”Chiang leave red told reporters，Adidas and east RON's generation of labor contract is signed in 2006，Belongs to the long-term contract，Since then there has been no sign a new contract。

　　但令她极其不满的是，去年11月3日，在苏州工厂传出即将关闭后，阿迪达斯大中华区高层还曾专门召集惴惴不安的代工商们进行辟谣，并安抚称，双方的合作将至少保持到2015年不变。孰料，言犹在耳，阿迪达斯就完全推翻了之前的承诺，东隆等10家代工商将被撤销代工合作。

But to her extremely discontented is，Last November 3,，In suzhou factory out after will be shut down，Adidas greater China region senior had special summon apprehensive and the commerce to crack down on the rumor mill，And appease says，Cooperation will at least keep to 2015 unchanged。ShuLiao，Words spoken not long ago，Adidas is completely overturned before the commitment，East long and 10 generation will be revoked and commerce OEM cooperation。

　　蒋留红还表示，按照往年的代工数量，每季度阿迪达斯给到东隆的应该有25万件左右，但今年Q4，即8月份到10月份，订单合计实际只有2万件。“按照到今年10月底结束合作的通知，即便合作要结束，之前也应当给到足够的订单，否则工厂会因来不及准备而面临生产业务一时跟不上的困难。阿迪达斯的这种做法有所欠妥，至少是对代工商有些不负责任。”

Chiang leave red also said，According to the usual number of OEM，Every quarter adidas to the east RON's should be 250000 or so，But this year Q4 is prevented，Namely in August to October，The actual total order only 20000 pieces。“According to the end of October this year to end the notice of cooperation，Even if cooperation have to end，Before also ought to give enough to order，Otherwise, the factory will be too late for preparation and production business faced with a difficult couldn't keep up with。Adidas this kind of practice is unsuitable，At least is to commerce and some irresponsible。”

　　据悉，2008年以前东隆每年给阿迪达斯代工的数量都在150万件以上，此后逐年下降，今年则将仅有60多万件。目前为阿迪达斯做代工的主要是东隆集团下属位于安徽铜陵的东隆华东服装有限公司。该公司拥有员工1600余人，其约70％的产能是为阿迪达斯服务。而且厂里还有部分只能为阿迪达斯生产的专用设备和软件系统，是从2009年开始累积投资300多万元添置的，“一旦代工合作取消，这些投入就是损失。”

It is reported，2008 years ago the east rise every year to adidas and the number of workers in more than 1.5 million pieces，Since then to drop year by year，This year it will only more than pieces。At present for adidas do OEM are mainly east lung group subordinate is located in the east in tongling, anhui long east China garments co., LTD。The company has more than 1600 employees，Its about 70% of capacity is for adidas service。And the factory and part can only for adidas production of special equipment and software system，Begin from 2009 accumulated investment of more than 300 yuan of acquire，“Once the OEM cooperation cancelled，These input is loss。”

　　蒋留红认为，阿迪达斯应对东隆安徽工厂的专用设备投入做些适当的补偿；同时，由于订单突然大减，为了避免安徽工厂关门、工人失业，公司还要临时从其他客户那里寻找补充订单，一些开价低廉的订单也硬着头皮接了下来，势必影响利润，阿迪达斯对此损失也应给予一定的补偿。“阿迪达斯SEA（社会和环境事务部门）一直对代工商在社会责任和环境义务方面有要求，要求保证工人工资、福利待遇等，但现在代工商在没了订单的情况下还要保证工人不失业，而阿迪达斯却将自己的责任撇清，这与其一直倡导的及品牌形象不相匹配。”

Chiang leave red think，Adidas to east long anhui factory specialized equipment investment do some appropriate compensation；At the same time，Due to order a great decrease suddenly，In order to avoid the factory closed in anhui province、Workers unemployed，The company also temporary from other clients there looking for supplementary order，Some offer low order also crustily skin of head pick down，Profits will be affected，Adidas this loss should also give some compensation。“Adidas SEA（Social and environmental affairs department）Has been to commerce generation in social responsibility and environmental obligations have requirements，Requirement assures the worker's wages、Benefits, etc，But now generation in commerce didn't order cases will ensure that workers do not unemployment，And adidas but my responsibility left clear，And this has been advocated and brand image don't match。”

　　为寻求补偿，代工商们多次与阿迪达斯方面进行了沟通，在7月6日对方经与总部汇报后明确答复不予补偿时，双方还发生了一些冲突。目前的最新进展则是，8月9日，阿迪达斯大中华区首席运营官Erick Haskell邮件回复称，将再确定时间与代工商就此进行协商。

Seek compensation for，And the commerce many times and adidas in communication，On July 6, by the other party with headquarters report a definite reply when no compensation，The two sides also some fighting broke out。The latest progress is，On August 9,，Adidas greater China area chief operating officer Erick Haskell E-mail reply said，To determine the time and generation in commerce negotiations。

　　记者日前致信阿迪达斯位于上海的贸易总部供应链总监Theresa Wong，试图询问相关详情，但截至发稿时，并未收到任何回复。

Reporters recently written adidas is located in the Shanghai headquarters trade supply chain director Theresa Wong，Try to ask relevant details，But when at the time，They have not received any reply。

　　

迁徙东南亚 Migration southeast Asia

　　据了解，此次被终止合同的10家代工商都是阿迪达斯苏州工厂下面的代工厂。苏州工厂仅有员工100多人，每月产能估计最多1万件，蒋留红分析称，“相当于一个门面，其主要依靠的是代工。”

It is understood，The terminated contract 10 commerce generation is adidas suzhou plant foundry below。Suzhou factory only staff more than 100 people，Monthly capacity estimated up to 10000 pieces，Chiang leave red analysis says，“As a facade，Its main depends on the generation of labor。”

　　关闭苏州工厂前，阿迪达斯在华的生产和采购业务分作两块，一部分通过苏州工厂将订单外包给代工厂实现，这部分订单主要用于满足中国市场的需求，约占中国市场总需求的60％；另一部分则由阿迪达斯的国际采购部门（LO）完成，该部门的采购及供应覆盖其全球市场。而调整后，所有在华订单的发单权将全部被转移至其国际采购部门。

Suzhou plant shut down before，Adidas in China production and procurement into two pieces，Part through the suzhou plant outsource to realize foundry，This part mainly used in order to meet the demand of the Chinese market，China accounts for about 60% of the total market demand；The other part is composed of adidas international purchasing department（lo）complete，The department of procurement and supply covers its global market。But adjusted，All orders in China the surrender of the document right will all be transferred to its international purchasing department。

　　业内人士表示，关闭苏州工厂，将在华采购业务并入国际采购部门，表明阿迪达斯正对中国劳动力成本的上升趋势作出判断和反应。此前，阿迪达斯全球CEO赫伯特?海纳就曾在接受德国媒体采访时表示，由于中国政府制定的工资标准逐渐变得过高，阿迪达斯希望部分地撤出中国，转移至劳动力更便宜的地区。而老挝、柬埔寨、越南这样的东南亚国家被阿迪达斯认为是更好的市场。

The personage inside course of study says，Closed suzhou plant，Will China procurement merge into international purchasing department，Show that adidas is on China's labor cost rising trend to make judgment and reaction。after，Adidas global CEO Herbert?Wave had told the German media interview said，As China government has formulated the salary standard gradually become too high，Adidas hope partly out of China，Transferred to the labor cheaper area。And Laos、Cambodia、Vietnam that southeast Asian countries are adidas considered better market。

　　有数据显示，中国的劳动力成本约是东南亚的两倍，同时，法国纺织品协会公布的研究表明：中国纺织品企业员工的平均工资为188-300欧元，比全球纺织业工资最低的国家——80欧元左右的孟加拉国高出很多。

Data show，The Chinese labor cost is about twice as southeast Asia，At the same time，The French textile association published research shows that：Chinese textile enterprise staff average wages for 188-300 euros，The lowest wages than the global textile industry countries - 80 euros ($) or so much higher in Bangladesh。

　　蒋留红亦对记者透露，东隆也已在缅甸设厂，于2011年2月投产，员工规模在1200人左右，但不是为阿迪达斯做代工。相比东隆安徽工厂，缅甸工厂的用工成本大概要低了30％。

Chiang leave red also revealed to reporters，East rise has also set in Burma，In February 2011 put into production，The staff size in about 1200 people，But not for adidas do OEM。Compared with the east long anhui factory，Burma's factory labor costs about 30% lower。

　　而跟随阿迪达斯，其一些代工商也正将部分产能转移至东南亚或在当地新设厂。“比如，宁波一家为阿迪达斯做针织品代工的企业就在柬埔寨开厂，工厂规模很大。”蒋留红告诉记者。

And with adidas，Some of its generation are also part of commerce will transfer capacity to southeast Asia or in a local new factories。“For example，Ningbo a for adidas do knitwear foundry enterprise is a factory in Cambodia，Plant size large。”Chiang leave red told reporters。

　　此外，据报道，为阿迪达斯代工的大厂台湾裕元集团（00551.HK）近年来也已开始把目光转向东南亚国家。该公司2003财年在中国、越南、印度尼西亚拥有的生产线分别为161、78和51条；到2010财年，在上述三地的生产线数量分别是226、120、114条，生产线的条数同比分别增加40.4％、53.8％和123.5％，越南和印尼生产线增加的幅度远高于中国。

In addition，According to the report，For adidas OEM the develoment of Taiwan yu yuan group（00551. HK）In recent years has also started to look to southeast Asian countries。The company in fiscal year 2003 in China、Vietnam、Indonesia has production line respectively for 161、78 and article 51；To fiscal year 2010，In the above three production line number respectively is 226、120、Article 114，The number of production line respectively increased by 40.4% year-on-year、53.8% and 123.5%，Vietnam and Indonesia production line the increase is far higher than China。

　　

“世界工厂”渐行渐远？ “The workshop of the world”Habbit is？

　　事实上，除了阿迪达斯，其竞争对手耐克2009年3月也关闭了位于中国的唯一一家鞋类生产工厂——江苏太仓工厂。同时，到2010年，耐克鞋越南生产的份额为37％，已超过了中国代工厂所占的34％的份额。

In fact，In addition to adidas，Its rival Nike March 2009 also closed is located in China's only a footwear production factory, jiangsu taicang factory。At the same time，By 2010，Nike shoes Vietnam production share is 37%，Already more than the Chinese foundry accounts for 34% of the share。

　　不仅如此，其实涉及不少行业的跨国公司近年来都已开始调整全球布局，随着低成本优势的逐渐丧失，中国与“世界工厂”似乎渐行渐远。

Not only that，Actually involves a lot of industry of multinational companies in recent years have started to adjust the global layout，With the gradual loss of low cost advantage，China and“The workshop of the world”Seems to be further away from it。

　　上海社科院世界经济研究所所长张幼文对《中国经贸聚焦》记者分析说，“类似阿迪达斯这样的个案会越来越多，其背景显然，因为中国沿海地区的劳动力等成本确实是在上升，包括劳动力短缺的现象也比较严重，部分外资以及中国的企业都在向更具成本优势的东南亚、中国的中西部地区等转移。这种趋势会一直延续，对出口和加工贸易的压力很大。”

Shanghai academy of world economic research institute of ZhangYouWen《Focus on China's economic and trade》Reporter analysis said，“Similar adidas such case will be more and more，Its background obviously，Because China's coastal areas such as labor cost really is on the rise，Including labor shortage phenomenon is more serious also，Part of the foreign and Chinese enterprises to more cost advantage of southeast Asia、China's middle and western regions transfer, etc。This trend will continue，On export and processing trade under a lot of pressure。”

　　不过，他同时认为，“中国制造”的概念比较宽泛，其中部分对成本敏感、使用较多劳动力的低端产业转移的动力相对较大，而一些更多考虑整个宏观经济环境、政策及产业配套能力等的，未必会出现迁徙的风潮。总体而言，“中国制造”还难言会因这些现象的出现而发生逆转。

but，He also think，“Made in China”Concept is broad，Some of the sensitive to cost、Use more labor low-end industry transfer of power is opposite bigger，And some more consideration to the whole macro economic environment、Policy and industrial supporting ability, etc，Not necessarily will appear of the migration of agitation。In general，“Made in China”Also will be difficult for these phenomena appear and reversed。

　　就此，蒋留红也称，东隆在缅甸开厂后目前仍在观望，是否进一步将产能转移到东南亚，“那里尽管人工成本较低，但工人效率、相应配套等比起国内要差。”

In this，Chiang leave red also called，East rise in myanmar open after the plant is still in wait-and-see，Whether further capacity transferred to southeast Asia，“There though artificial cost is low，But workers efficiency、Corresponding than domestic such as less。”

　

　艰难转型路 Difficult transformation road

　　但无论外部环境，还是就其自身而言，这些中国代工产业都亟需尽早踏上转型之路。

But no matter external environment，Or the itself，The Chinese foundry industry is urgently needed on the road as soon as possible the transformation。

　　此次阿迪达斯取消订单的10家代工商中，受到影响最大的并非东隆。按照蒋留红介绍，整个东隆集团员工人数约1万人，为阿迪达斯做代工的只有1000人左右。对于同处上海的君合服饰制衣有限公司（下称君合）、敏恒实业有限公司等100％产能都是为阿迪达斯服务的代工商而言，冲击显然要大得多。

The adidas cancel the order of 10 generations in commerce，Affected the biggest not east lung。According to Chiang leave red is introduced，The whole east lung group, the number of employees of about 10000 people，For adidas do OEM only about 1000 people。For with the Shanghai king close apparel clothing co., LTD（Says jun under close）、Sensitive constant industrial co., LTD. 100% capacity are for adidas service generation in commerce，Impact obviously more。

　　据悉，君合目前就忙于准备转型做汽车装饰。在《中国经贸聚焦》记者联系该公司高姓负责人时，对方甚至表示，“因为最近在忙转型的事，所以这几天没有时间与你交流，实在对不起。”

It is reported，Jun close at present is busy preparing for transformation to do car decoration。in《Focus on China's economic and trade》Reporter contact the company name head high，Each other even said，“Because recent in favour of transformation，So this several days didn't have time to talk to you，I'm terribly sorry。”

　　张幼文表示，这些传统产品目前存在供大于求的问题，转型的关键应在于产品的升级换代，同样的产品可选择做长产业链，品牌、技术、销售网络等也不可缺少，不能再过分依赖给国外品牌做代工。另外，通过海外并购买下跨国公司的原有主干企业也是一种捷径。

ZhangYouWen said，These traditional product at present the problem of supply exceeds demand，The key lies in the transformation should be upgrading of products，The same product can choose do long industrial chain，brand、technology、Sales network and so on is also essential，Can't depend on to foreign brands do OEM。In addition，Through the overseas merger and acquisition buy multinational original backbone enterprise is also a shortcut。

　　蒋留红则告诉记者，事实上，东隆也对转型早有考虑并已着手在做。2008年金融危机前后公司就开始发展自有品牌，不过目前这块的销售额所占比重不到20％，八成以上的产能还都是给阿迪达斯等品牌做代工。

Chiang leave red, told reporters，In fact，East long also to the transition early have considered and has set out to do。The financial crisis in 2008 after the company started to develop their own brands，But at present the proportion of sales of less than 20%，More than eighty percent of capacity is also to adidas brand such as do OEM。

　　她表示，对于代工危局的应对，今后除了继续着力发展自有品牌之外，还拟将现有的产业链向两端延伸——既做服装加工，也涉足上游的面料生产，尾端就是建设销售渠道，将产业链拉长，以弥补在服装加工上的损失。同时，加大投入加强研发设计能力，使产品更具竞争力。

She says，For OEM to a dangerous situation，The future in addition to continue to focus on the development of own brand outside，Also will be proposed to the existing industry chain extension to both ends, both do garment processing，Also set foot in the upper reaches of the fabric production，End is construction sales channels，Will spin industry chain，To make up for the loss in garment processing。At the same time，Increasing investment to strengthen research and development design capability，Make products more competitive。

　　不过，蒋留红也坦言，代工的转型之路非常困难。“最大的问题在于国内商场的进场费等收费高昂，渠道建设很艰难。物流成本相对也比国外要贵一些。目前国内的设计师团队总体水平不高，设计出来的产品往往不容易得到客户的认可。包括按照样品做出来的同一款产品，在不同城市销售，不同检测部门的抽检因为操作不合理等因素，检测结果经常出现不同，给厂家带来不小的困扰。”此外，新《劳动合同法》实施以后，不仅用工成本上升，加之工人不遵守合同也造成人员流动较大，给企业带来较重负担，难以正常组织生产。

but，Chiang leave red also said，The transformation of OEM road is very difficult。“The biggest problem lies in the domestic market of approach fees high fees，Channel construction is very difficult。The logistics cost relative than abroad are more expensive。At present domestic designer team overall level is not high，Designed products are not always easy to get the customer approval。According to the sample including out of the same product，In different city sales，Different detection department check for operation factors such as unreasonable，Test results often appear different，To the manufacturer to bring a lot of trouble。”In addition，The new《Labor contract law》After implementation，Not only labor costs rise，Together with workers do not abide by the contract also caused the personnel flow larger，For enterprise to bring the heavy burden，Difficult to normal tissue production。

　　“产业转型升级需要有个循序渐进的过程，不可能一蹴而就，从2009年到现在短短几年间就完成。国家在这方面也需要给予合理引导和相应的支持。”　

“The transformation and upgrading of industry needs a gradual process，Can't accomplish in one move，From 2009 to now just a few years to complete。Countries in this respect also need to guide rational and the corresponding support。”